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Exploring the relationship between material and textile structure in creating changing textile expressions
Högskolan i Borås, Akademin för textil, teknik och ekonomi. (Smart Textiles Design Lab)
2015 (Engelska)Ingår i: EKSIG 2015 – Tangible Means - Experiential Knowledge Through Materials, Kolding, 2015Konferensbidrag, Publicerat paper (Refereegranskat)
Abstract [en]

This paper explores the relationship between potentially dynamic materials and textile structures for designing textiles with inherent changing qualities. Textiles are usually designed to retain their appearance for as long as possible. Yet all textiles wear out and change over time, both physically and aesthetically. This means the life spans of textile object and the material it is made from will not necessarily be equal. The dynamic changeable qualities in textiles could instead be enhanced by using the potentially dynamic, changing qualities inherent to materials and combining them with textile structures. Through contextualisation and design examples, this paper discusses the possibilities of embedding these qualities into textiles, and presents a series of woven and knitted designs that combine these materials into different textile structures. Two materials with differing dynamic qualities were chosen for the experiments. These are polyvinyl alcohol (PVA) yarn—a material that melts in water and uncoated copper wire—which creates a patina when it reacts with air. These materials are combined into woven and knitted structures and then exposed to two types of stimuli to explore how different stimuli affect the way in which the materials change: passive exposure to weather, and an active workshop with fashion design students. The results are initial explorations into the basic principles of combining potentially dynamic materials into textile structures to create textiles that take advantage of how different materials change over their life span, and how this might look. Through embedding different time spans into textiles instead of designing static expressions, the life span of materials and textile objects could be better matched, enabling the designer to tailor a more appropriate life span for textiles.

Ort, förlag, år, upplaga, sidor
Kolding, 2015.
Nyckelord [en]
textile design, material, structure, weaving, dynamic
Nationell ämneskategori
Design
Forskningsämne
Textil och mode (konstnärlig)
Identifikatorer
URN: urn:nbn:se:hb:diva-8627OAI: oai:DiVA.org:hb-8627DiVA, id: diva2:894803
Konferens
EKSIG 2015, Kolding, Denmark on 24th-25th of November 2015
Anmärkning

Link to the conference proceedings published online: http://experientialknowledge.org.uk/conference_2015.html

Tillgänglig från: 2016-01-15 Skapad: 2016-01-15 Senast uppdaterad: 2022-04-19Bibliografiskt granskad
Ingår i avhandling
1. Changeability as a quality in textile design
Öppna denna publikation i ny flik eller fönster >>Changeability as a quality in textile design
2019 (Engelska)Licentiatavhandling, sammanläggning (Övrigt vetenskapligt)
Abstract [en]

The tendency to wear out and change is inherent in most materials, but – aside from a few exceptions – has been considered to be undesirable by both the industry and consumers. The work presented in this licentiate thesis suggests that, due to change in some form being an inherent property of textiles, it may be viable to look for alternative ways of designing and perceiving textiles that accept change as one of their qualities.

 The experimental work explores change as a quality in textiles from the perspective of the textile material, and examines irreversible changes in textiles from three different perspectives: form, use, and teaching changeability in the field of textile design. Changes in colour, pattern, texture, and structure were explored by developing knitted and woven textiles using materials with pronounced changeable properties, and exposing these to various stimuli, such as outdoor conditions and use in workshops.

The experiments suggest that the combination of material and structure defines how textiles change when exposed to various stimuli. A material’s properties define what the textile reacts to and how, while the structure of the textile influences how it changes through the amount and placement of materials. In addition, time and the handling of a textile shape the exact changes that take place.

Designing with changeability as a quality in textiles opens up for alternative possibilities as regards creating expressions, wherein time and change are design variables alongside more traditional qualities, and could encourage a diversity of lifespans and changes over various timescales, better connecting textiles to the properties of their raw materials. This may mean that an alternative method for evaluating quality based on change instead of permanence could be viable, wherein the notion of permanence as a sign of quality in textiles is questioned.

Ort, förlag, år, upplaga, sidor
Högskolan i Borås, 2019
Serie
University of Borås studies in artistic research ; 28
Nationell ämneskategori
Design
Forskningsämne
Textil och mode (konstnärlig)
Identifikatorer
urn:nbn:se:hb:diva-15990 (URN)978-91-88838-30-8 (ISBN)
Tillgänglig från: 2019-04-23 Skapad: 2019-04-15 Senast uppdaterad: 2019-04-23Bibliografiskt granskad
2. Designing for changeability in textiles
Öppna denna publikation i ny flik eller fönster >>Designing for changeability in textiles
2022 (Engelska)Doktorsavhandling, sammanläggning (Övrigt vetenskapligt) [Forskning på konstnärlig grund]
Abstract [en]

The tendency to wear out and change is inherent in most materials, yet textiles are usually designed to retain a single expression. Within an experimental, practical work, materials that are inherently changeable were used to create woven and knitted structures in order to approach textiles from the perspective of changeability and explore what this might mean for the field of textile design. This was undertaken in order to improve our understanding of what designing textiles that change over time means for the practice of designing textiles.

The experiments explored changes in colour, texture, and structure within single textiles, and used textural changes to create form based on three variables: material, textile structure, and the stimuli textiles were exposed to. Further experiments explored the potential applications of these textiles in the context of fashion and interiors. The outcomes of the experiments showed that how materials are treated and used influences a textile’s expression and properties and how these change over time. 

The research presented in this thesis suggests an alternative way of perceiving and designing textiles: as things that are changeable. The changes in the properties, expressions, aesthetics, and uses of textiles could be embedded during the design process through three interconnected variables: time, change, and context of use. This further suggests an alternative conception of quality for textiles which is based on the aesthetics of change, in terms of when, how, and as a result of what a textile changes. Such a perspective could even encourage an increased acceptance of changes occurring in textiles, and help to re-establish a connection between people, the textiles that surround them, and the materials that textiles are made of.

Ort, förlag, år, upplaga, sidor
Borås: Högskolan i Borås, 2022. s. 393
Serie
University of Borås studies in artistic research ; 41
Nationell ämneskategori
Design
Forskningsämne
Textil och mode (konstnärlig)
Identifikatorer
urn:nbn:se:hb:diva-27656 (URN)978-91-89271-62-3 (ISBN)978-91-89271-63-0 (ISBN)
Disputation
2022-05-18, Borås, 13:00 (Engelska)
Handledare
Tillgänglig från: 2022-04-25 Skapad: 2022-03-17 Senast uppdaterad: 2022-04-20Bibliografiskt granskad

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http://experientialknowledge.org.uk/conference_2015.html
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