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  • 1.
    Landahl, Karin
    University of Borås, Swedish School of Textiles.
    Fotoserie, untitled 20092009Other (Other academic)
  • 2.
    Landahl, Karin
    University of Borås, Swedish School of Textiles.
    On form thinking in knitwear design2013Licentiate thesis, monograph (Other academic)
    Abstract [en]

    This licentiate thesis presents and discusses experimental explorations in search for new methods of form-thinking within the knitwear design process. The position of textile knitting techniques is somewhat ambiguous. This is because they are not only concerned with creating the textile material, but also with the form of the garment as these two are created in the same process. Consequently, the common perception of form and material as two separate design parameters can be questioned when it comes to knitting. Instead, we may view it as a design process that has a single design parameter; a design process in which the notion of form provides the conceptual foundation. Through conducting a series of design experiments using knitting and crochet techniques, the notion of form was explored from the perspective of the way in which we make a garment. The outcome of the experiments showed that there are possibilities for development of alternative working methods in knitwear design by viewing form in terms of topological invariants rather than as abstract geometrical silhouettes. If such a notion, i.e. a notion of a more concrete geometry, were to be implemented in the design process for knitwear, it would provide another link between action and expression that could deepen our understanding of the design potential of knitting techniques and provide the field with new expressions and gestalts.

  • 3.
    Landahl, Karin
    University of Borås, Faculty of Textiles, Engineering and Business.
    The Myth of the Silhouette: On form thinking in knitwear design2015Doctoral thesis, monograph (Other academic)
    Abstract [en]

    This thesis presents and discusses the results of foundational experimental designresearch in the field of fashion design methodology, with a particular focus onknitwear. The research explored and broadened the foundations of form-thinkingin the design process for knitwear and knitting, with the objective of developingalternative form-concepts and working methods relevant to practitioners andstudents active in the field.

    Knitting is not simply designing using yet another technique; it is designing from adifferent perspective. When making a knitted item, no material has to be preparedbeforehand, as material and item can be created at one and the same time. Thus,the prevalent distinction between form and material as two separate parameters inthe design process for knitwear can be questioned. Hence, developing the designprocess for knitwear by focusing on alternative ways of understanding the notionof form is of great significance as regards further developments in the wider field ofknit and knitwear design.

    The key aim of the research was to replace the silhouette – used as a guidingprinciple in form thinking – with the notion of invariants, which define what wedo as we knit a given garment. The notion of invariants used in this thesis comesfrom topology, and refers to properties that do not change under non-destructivetransformations. The form of the garment is then given by basic invariants, whichdefine what we build and how we build it. As these properties do not changeunder non-destructive transformations, they do not suggest a specific silhouettewith regard to ready-made garments, but rather a more fundamental form, whichcharacterises the garment throughout making and use. Employed in this way,the notion of an invariant introduces a form of concrete geometry which focusesdirectly on the specifics of making.

    Several initial experiments are described in brief, and this is followed by a discussionof the three more elaborate design experiments which led to the development of atheoretical framework. This is then exemplified with the last design experiment, inwhich theory informs the set-up, and consequently shows the design potentials ofthe suggested method.

  • 4.
    Larsen, Ulrik Martin
    et al.
    University of Borås, Swedish School of Textiles.
    Landahl, Karin
    University of Borås, Swedish School of Textiles.
    Malmgren de Oliveira, Stefanie
    University of Borås, Swedish School of Textiles.
    Lindqvist, Rickard
    University of Borås, Swedish School of Textiles.
    Dressed Integrity2012Other (Other academic)
    Abstract [en]

    Dressed–Integrity presents new logics of expression and functionality in dress and its relation to the body. As an aesthetic research program in dress it is about the fundamental relationship between form and material, between technique and expression. Through the development in art the program aims to challenge the institutions of craft through the appropriation of technology, and through the development science and epistemology the program aims to challenge the institutions of technology through the appropriation of art. The research program is therefore not an empirical research program that aims to introduce new theories about fashion. It is about developing foundational concepts and theoretical propositions of fashion design in and for itself as an academic field with an obvious integrity. As such the exhibition present a few examples of new techniques, methods, models and definitions of dress and its relation to the body, conducted by handful of PhD candidates within the research program in fashion design at the Swedish School of Textiles, Borås, Sweden.

  • 5.
    Lindqvist, Rickard
    et al.
    University of Borås, Swedish School of Textiles.
    Larsen, Ulrik Martin
    University of Borås, Swedish School of Textiles.
    Landahl, Karin
    University of Borås, Swedish School of Textiles.
    Research proposals: Phds in fashion design2009Other (Other academic)
    Abstract [en]

    The starting point of three different research projects will be exhibited and the question " What is actually a cardigan?" will be discussed. Karin Landahl, Ulrik Martin Larsen and Rickard Lindqvist are PhD students in fashion design at the Swedish School of Textile. The research in fashion design at the school has its focus on practice based design research with special emphasis on the development of methods for professional and experimental fashion design. Karin Landahls main focus for the research-years ahead is the relation between form and materials sprung from a background in knitwear design. Ulrik Martin Larsens first research project will examine the distinctions between accessory and garment through the creation of objects that straddle the line between these two categories. Rickard Lindqvist has throughout his career worked with pattern cutting as creative method and aims to carry out research on pattern cutting as aesthetics.

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