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Mörk kostym
University of Borås, Swedish School of Textiles.
2012 (English)Other (Other academic)Mixed material
Abstract [en]

If the expression of the body is the focal point, and how this expression is transformed by dressing it in fabric, a more reflective study of the body from a dressmakers perspective might be meaningful for the development of new design methods. “Mörk kostym 2012” aspires to both challenge and preserve the art of tailoring. Challenge tailoring methodologically in construction, hence propose an alternative view upon the body, meanwhile preserve it by utilizing traditional methods of making. The jacket and the trousers are two examples, using the “La coupe en un seul morceau” method developed by French costumier Genevieve Sevin-Doering, here a piece of fabric is sculptured into a garment on a living body, from which a new logic is extracted proposing an alternative way of approaching the body while cutting garments. The theory is visualised in a number of gravity and balance lines on the body to initiate the work of cutting, draping and fitting garments from and certain points proposing where on the body to address the foundational cuts. These garments are cut from one single piece of fabric however the number of pieces composing the garments are of less significance. The one-piece principal can be compared to a beautiful proof in mathematics, or the simplest equation explaining a series of experiments, the proof could be written differently, in any number of pieces, but the simplicity expresses the theory more clear.

Place, publisher, year, edition, pages
Röhsska museet , 2012.
Keyword [en]
fashion design, pattern cutting, design
National Category
Other Humanities not elsewhere specified
Research subject
Textiles and Fashion (Design)
URN: urn:nbn:se:hb:diva-5364Local ID: 2320/11826OAI: diva2:884792
Tack till Bauer skräddare i Stockholm för gott sammarbete.Available from: 2015-12-17 Created: 2015-12-17

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Lindqvist, Rickard
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Swedish School of Textiles
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