Change search
CiteExportLink to record
Permanent link

Direct link
Cite
Citation style
  • apa
  • ieee
  • modern-language-association-8th-edition
  • vancouver
  • Other style
More styles
Language
  • de-DE
  • en-GB
  • en-US
  • fi-FI
  • nn-NO
  • nn-NB
  • sv-SE
  • Other locale
More languages
Output format
  • html
  • text
  • asciidoc
  • rtf
Vackert och värdigt: Liturgiska textilier från svenska ateljéer 1880 - 1930
Stockholm University, Faculty of Humanities, Department of Culture and Aesthetics.
2017 (Swedish)Doctoral thesis, monograph (Other academic)Alternative title
Beauty and dignity : Liturgical textiles from swedish studios 1880 – 1930 (English)
Abstract [en]

This thesis deals with the production of liturgical textiles in five Swedish studios between 1880 and 1930. It is based on a survey of what was delivered to and preserved in the buildings of the Church of Sweden, more than 4,000 recorded objects. Ecclesiastical liturgical textile art in Sweden forms part of an uninterrupted tradition from the Middle Ages.

A new era in ecclesiastical textiles began in Sweden in five major studios in Stockholm and Göteborg. Earlier production during the 19th century had become increasingly stereotypical and there was little interest in ecclesiastical art and liturgy in the parishes of the Swedish church.

My survey of this extensive material has enabled me to make conclusions about when new textiles were produced and where, as well as when important changes took place. The iconography, symbols, figurative motifs and texts used in the textiles reveal trends in the historical development of the church’s liturgy. It is also possible to see when the different liturgical colours began to come back into use. Differences in the designs of the textiles show which artistic figures had a dominant influence on ecclesiastical liturgical textiles at a certain time. Five sections in chapter IV deal with a few larger special commissions. The first were for two newly-built churches in the early 1910s by two eminent architects who also designed the textiles. The third church was provided with new textiles in 1917 in connection with an extensive restoration. The fourth case concerns a private initiative to acquire new textiles for an old church. Finally, the ecumenical archbishop’s robes were produced for the Archbishop Nathan Söderblom and worn at the ecumenical meeting in 1925. The archbishop had a firm opinion about its iconographic programme.

The five colours were launched in practice on the west coast of Sweden during the 1880s and 1890s. The textile artist Agnes Bran­ting introduced them at the Stockholm Exhibition in 1897. Supplementary commissions for white and green textiles were made from the parishes, for both frontals and chasubles at the end of the 1920s.

A wealth of different motifs and differences began to appear between the iconography of the various studios in the 20th century. By no means all liturgical textiles were provided with texts, but enough to make it possible to describe a new trend.

Many women and a few male artists developed their aesthetic expression working with ecclesiastical textiles during the fifty years covered by this thesis. The work of the professional studios was fundamental for the development of many young women into resolute, modern professional practitioners.

What was linked to the ecclesiastical, the sacred, found expression and was described in words such as beautiful, true and dignified. The textiles embodied an intention to enhance the aesthetic values of worship and ecclesiastical space, to add variation and solemnity. This involved a deeper and more widespread use of motifs and symbols, of high-quality material and of craftsmanship. This study has contributed new knowledge about the period, its aesthetics and its theology.

Place, publisher, year, edition, pages
Stockholm: Institutionen för kultur och estetik, Stockholms universitet , 2017. , p. 378
National Category
Art History
Research subject
Art History
Identifiers
URN: urn:nbn:se:su:diva-141709ISBN: 978-91-7649-793-7 (print)ISBN: 978-91-7649-794-4 (electronic)OAI: oai:DiVA.org:su-141709DiVA, id: diva2:1088518
Public defence
2017-06-14, William-Olssonsalen, Geovetenskapens hus, Svante Arrhenius väg 14, Stockholm, 13:00 (Swedish)
Opponent
Supervisors
Available from: 2017-05-22 Created: 2017-04-12 Last updated: 2017-05-22Bibliographically approved

Open Access in DiVA

Vackert och värdigt(39743 kB)1340 downloads
File information
File name FULLTEXT01.pdfFile size 39743 kBChecksum SHA-512
cdfe14913678ff15bb97a8f328c6139550c5ab628ae13c05e46dbd1fba290f0e351c3ea12810e56dc2f72c3df22e693ef5b14012a51917f211e58051ad9a41ff
Type fulltextMimetype application/pdf

Search in DiVA

By author/editor
Ridderstedt, Margareta
By organisation
Department of Culture and Aesthetics
Art History

Search outside of DiVA

GoogleGoogle Scholar
Total: 1340 downloads
The number of downloads is the sum of all downloads of full texts. It may include eg previous versions that are now no longer available

isbn
urn-nbn

Altmetric score

isbn
urn-nbn
Total: 1091 hits
CiteExportLink to record
Permanent link

Direct link
Cite
Citation style
  • apa
  • ieee
  • modern-language-association-8th-edition
  • vancouver
  • Other style
More styles
Language
  • de-DE
  • en-GB
  • en-US
  • fi-FI
  • nn-NO
  • nn-NB
  • sv-SE
  • Other locale
More languages
Output format
  • html
  • text
  • asciidoc
  • rtf